24th Jul2013

Attack on Titan – Survey Corps Jacket

by hyperionkp

On to the jackets! This was by far one of the easiest parts of the build, in my opinion. I say this lightly as there are many steps… to sewing a jacket from scratch. I would say you need moderate experience with sewing to tackle this. If you’re a beginner I still say give it a try! You can only gain experience by attempting things that challenge your skill set. A simple cropped jacket. I always see people use leather jackets for this costume, while they look very nice I doubt the military would issue uniforms in leather. It hinders your mobility and makes you sweat to death. I don’t want to sweat to death in the  August heat. SO… we’re not going to do that. Instead we bought a tobacco colored twill, probably far too much of it to be honest. We also bought a similar colored liner fabric.

I patterned a cropped denim jacket I already owned. Two panels for the front, one panel for the back.

Someone asked me to add this. Here’s a rough sketch of the pattern, but use your own measurements. Hopefully this helps… but it might not… Sorry.

Key measurements.

  • Diameter around your arm hole (try using something you already own
  • Collar – neck
  • Shoulder (collar to arm hole)
  • Shoulder (across back from arm hole to arm hole)
  • Arm pit to bottom of the jacket, remember it’s a cropped jacket.

rough-template

Make sure when making your own pattern to leave extra room for seam allowance. For each piece of your template you will trace and cut 2 front panels and 1 back panel in both the main fabric and liner.

Sew the pieces together to make a vest. You should have two “vests”, one of your main fabric and one of your liner. Attach them together at the bottom by sewing them together with the finished sides face each other. Then flip them around so they’re the “right” way.

Next measure the arm hole (you just created), wrist (leave room to get your hand through) and the length of your arm from shoulder to wrist (it’s best to do this with your arm bent in front of you, so you don’t end up with short sleeves). Measure out these dimensions

Cut our 2 on your fabric.

The best way is in the shape of a cone.

Repeat on lining fabric.

Sew all “4″ sleeves. Adjust as needed.

Put 1 normal fabric and 1 liner fabric together, raw edges facing each other and sew down the cuff.

Pin the sleeve inside of the arm hole of your “vest”.

It’s important at this point to try it on before sewing so you can adjust the fit if needed. If everything is okay, repeat on the other arm, try it on again, and sew it together.

For the shoulder detail I cut out two thick strips. Pinned them down into the shapes I wanted and sewed. For the thinner strips you fold the fabric in half and sew down the raw edge. Then you flip it inside out and iron it down.

Attach them to the shoulder.

Cut a thin triangle pattern that spans the length of the front of your jacket.

image[2]

Pin in place, then sew down or attach with seam tape. Add button details to the shoulder.

image[3]

Cut out two pockets and leave enough room for seam allowance.

photo

Sew down the top of the pocket and measure out the pocket flaps with 4 pieces of material. Then sew two together along your measured lines, leaving the bottom open.

image[1]

Flip inside out and iron down. Tuck the raw edge inside, iron and sew down. Then add the button detail.

image[4]

Pin the pockets down, make sure they light up evenly. Then sew it to the jacket.

image[5]

To make the patches we printed the emblem on iron-on transfer paper for dark fabric. Ironed them onto fabric and cut them out to make it look more like a patch. This also gives more room for error instead of just ironing it directly onto the jacket.

Need the Recon Corps emblem? Nikodiazderivera on Deviantart made a high resolution Illustrator file of the emblem, to download Click Here. If you’re going to use this art, please give credit back to the original creator.

Here are TIFF versions of that original art that I re-sized for our jackets to print on iron-on transfer paper 8.5×11:

Mostly finished photo:

photo-6

15 Responses to “Attack on Titan – Survey Corps Jacket”

  • Tods Shoes

    Do you mind if I quote a couple of your posts as long as I provide credit and sources back to your weblog? My blog site is in the very same niche as yours and my users would genuinely benefit from a lot of the information you present here. Please let me know if this okay with you. Many thanks!

  • Savanna Widell

    Exceptional post but I was wanting to know if you could write a litte more on this topic? I’d be very grateful if you could elaborate a little bit further. Bless you!

  • Wanabecosplay

    Hey, do you think you could post clear pictures of the template? I need a rough ifea of what I’m doing.

  • Izanagi

    I was wondering, about how many yards of each fabric did you buy? I’m about 5’3″. Where did you buy it and about how much was it? Was it pricier or cheaper than buying an already made jacket?

  • andy

    So I was wondering, what measurements did you use for this? Like what did you measure??

  • Vanessa

    What kind of material did you use for the outside of the jacket??

  • Hi Andy,

    In my post under Key Measurements are the things you should measure on yourself. Use my diagram for the pattern and get measurements of the following:
    -around your neckline.
    -shoulder to wrist
    -shoulder to shoulder (in front and take a separate measurement for across your back)
    -armhole
    -bottom of arm hold down the length you want for the jacket.
    -neckline down the length you want for the jacket.
    -around your wrist

    I hope this helps!

  • Hi Izanagi,

    When we bought the fabric we bought enough to make 3 jackets. I would say 2 yards is sufficient for 1 jacket since they’re more of a cropped style. I always get a little extra in case you mess up. We bought it at Joann’s fabric, if you can get it with a coupon or when they’re having a sale it’s better or else it might be a little pricey-er than other fabric.
    http://www.joann.com/sew-classic-bottomweight-solid-classic-twill-tobacco/zprd_10493658a/

    Buying the fabric and making it yourself is usually cheaper than getting a commission done. However, getting a commission is less stressful on you! Good luck!

  • Hi Wanabecosplay, I added a really rough sketch of the pattern and key measurements to take off of yourself. Hope it helps!

  • Conner

    So, I started making my own jacket today using your tutorial. And I was wondering if you tapered the jacket at all, or if it just goes straight down from under the armpit to the bottom? The sketch of the pattern looks like it’s just a straight side, but I wanted to doublecheck. Thanks so much for making this tutorial by the way!

  • Hi Conner,

    I did not taper the jacket for two reasons. You don’t close the front as part of the survey corps uniform and because of my build. Mind you, if you put yours on and the fit is off, by all means tailor it to your body. Hope this helps. Good luck!

  • Conner

    Thank you! :D I also realized that a jacket that short with a taper might look a bit odd anyway, at least on a male figure. Thanks again!

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